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@MallyG
U can buy a factory replacement off amazon.
Or if u want to change it out, u will need a dual voice coil 2+2 ohm shallow mount sub
View this page
http://www.f150online.com/forums/speakers-subwoofers/408637-8-factory-sub-replacment-2.html
Appreciate that @Cinco (? )!!! *salutes* -
Recaptimus_Prime360 wrote: »Does anyone know if they sell the Beats by Dre subwoofer they put in the Chargers?
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Recaptimus_Prime360 wrote: »Does anyone know if they sell the Beats by Dre subwoofer they put in the Chargers?
U can get way more bang for your buck.
But it is plug and play
http://m.ebay.com/itm/131584690976?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368
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Recaptimus_Prime360 wrote: »Does anyone know if they sell the Beats by Dre subwoofer they put in the Chargers?
U can get way more bang for your buck.
But it is plug and play
http://m.ebay.com/itm/131584690976?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368
It's pretty hard to find
But here's a dude selling it for $130
http://www.lxforums.com/board/showthread.php/374546-10-quot-Beats-Audio-by-Dr-Dre-Subwoofer-130-Shipped-in-U-S-A/page3 -
I'd appreciate some feedback on this.....
I bought 2 of these
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_18918_Infinity-Reference-1262W.html
And this
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_67917_Hifonics-ZRX1200.1D.html
Took it to Best Buy to install and they told me that in order for them to work it would be either under-powered or over-powered, I would need to exchange my OG wiring kit thats already in my truck(see OP if you missed) for a higher powered joint.
So yea, none of that sounds good to me so I didnt get anything done. What would you guys suggest? I dont have a problem sending either or back If I need to but I'd rather send the amp back just cause of the package not being so big.
She also left me with this. Im terrible with this ? , HELP lol
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Brang it here
The one I posted above is gonna hit the hardest but may get warm. It will also put out 1200w so it will put pressure on your subs. Having them flexing to the max.
The amp should be 1 ohm stable. As shown on the spec sheet.
HOWEVER for a more conservative configuration
You can hook it up like this
400 watts at 4 ohms Try this first to see how it sounds.
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Get them 2 ohm 600 Watts with that 1200 watt mono block bruh, and upgrade the wires cause all that power will just blow out the fuse holder if you don't have 0-2 gauge wires, I been there already when I switched to that 1200 Watt mono block from that 2 channel, I kept blowing the fuse holder on the lower wire. But on the real, if I'm not mistaking I think you can just upgrade the fuse holder to the power wire already ran to the battery to one of those clear box fuse holders that take them big ass fuses and the wires already ran to the amps can just be swiped out for 0 to 2 gauge wires. Just go to a local car audio shop if you have any out there.
You also need to get you one of these and connect all the power wires ran to your amps and the grounded wires to one of these
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_88293_Kinetik-HC1200-BLU.html
or
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_88296_Kinetik-HC1800-BLU.html
Cause them capacitors ain't ? and this backup battery will power and handle the full load of your entire system and save your front battery from going dead, and upgrade your alternator to one of them high outputs if you can. -
Just realized i get half off on speakers and ? at best buy. Any brand i should prefer
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Melanin_Enriched wrote: »Just realized i get half off on speakers and ? at best buy. Any brand i should prefer
MMM! -
Finally got my ? done. I had to send them other joints back @Cinco , I took it to 2 other people and they all told me the same thing. I appreciate the help tho. I decided to pay the extra buck and get some ? from Cartunes with a warranty and ? like that.
12's
I got the 250 watt amp instead of the 500 cause buddy told me if I wasn't trynna beat the whole block down just get the 250. $100 cheaper, I'm OK with that.
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@stew Ah man wish I was out there I woulda got it going.
I see u Went with the sealed JL I know that setup sounds good -
@stew Ah man wish I was out there I woulda got it going.
I see u Went with the sealed JL I know that setup sounds good
Nah its ported. Its inbetween the woofers and the "Slot-Ported BassWedge"
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I missed the port and words on the bottom
Smooth design
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Yea man and I can already hear what I was missing with the Bandpass like u was saying earlier. -
Didn't know they made 250 watt mono block amps?
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ZydecoShawty wrote: »Didn't know they made 250 watt mono block amps?
That's true RMS Power. Many other companies give the maximum ratings.
Also, they underrate their stuff. I'll bet that little amp has a max close to 500w -
Can someone please explain to me how the speakers and subs work together to produce the sound? Is it like surround sound where the speakers are dividing the wattage? what about the frequency response? if you have speakers that have a specific frequency response range do you have to make sure that the subs response is below it so that they don't clash?
i think i kinda answered my own question with that. but basically i just want to run two tens and make sure i can hear all parts with complete sound clarity. i don't care about rattle and knock so much as the sound. i wanna hear full round bass, drums that pop through the mix but still hear every sizzle of the hi hats. i wanna hear everything. thanks in advance.
also i know i want the system to be less than 2000 watts but greater than 1000 watts.
oh yeah and spend less than five hundred. preferably 300. i don't care about brands i want bang for my buck.
i'd appreciate it greatly if someone could help me with this.
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i want it all powered by the same amp, i've already got my speakers. since the subs and the speakers have different peak watt ratings does that mean they will be connected in series? i don't want to break my speakers, but i want current running through all of them efficiently.
i've got my speakers, so basically I'm looking for two 10" subs with low impedance that can work with these speakers and be driven using the same amp.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105CSDR600/JVC-CS-DR600C.html
those are the speakers. now I just want to know what type of amp I need and a compatible set of subwoofers. just trying to be more specific. thanks. -
Can someone please explain to me how the speakers and subs work together to produce the sound? Is it like surround sound where the speakers are dividing the wattage? what about the frequency response? if you have speakers that have a specific frequency response range do you have to make sure that the subs response is below it so that they don't clash?
i think i kinda answered my own question with that. but basically i just want to run two tens and make sure i can hear all parts with complete sound clarity. i don't care about rattle and knock so much as the sound. i wanna hear full round bass, drums that pop through the mix but still hear every sizzle of the hi hats. i wanna hear everything. thanks in advance.
also i know i want the system to be less than 2000 watts but greater than 1000 watts.
oh yeah and spend less than five hundred. preferably 300. i don't care about brands i want bang for my buck.
i'd appreciate it greatly if someone could help me with this.
jbl makes great subs for clean clear sound and bass vs trunck rattling knock. In my old car I replaced all the component speakers in the doors and back dash and put them on a 4 channel amp. then on a monoblock amp I put 2 12s (for u ur 2 10s). go with a sealed box instead of a ported one because the ported box is for more knock vs sound quality. U will have a great clean system with bass and great sound quality. Now if u want everything on on amp u could get a 5 channel amp and have everything running through it. It will expensive for a really good 5 channel amp and u gotta be real careful not to overheat it. -
@SlimRemy list everything you have already What head unit are u running ? Factory or aftermarket
What speakers do you have? -
thanks for your responses. i figured out what speakers im going to get. but i don't think I need any actually. my car already came with speakers, i think i need to get an amp and some subs. how do i find out what kind of speakers are in it?
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Finally got my ? done. I had to send them other joints back @Cinco , I took it to 2 other people and they all told me the same thing. I appreciate the help tho. I decided to pay the extra buck and get some ? from Cartunes with a warranty and ? like that.
12's
I got the 250 watt amp instead of the 500 cause buddy told me if I wasn't trynna beat the whole block down just get the 250. $100 cheaper, I'm OK with that.
@Stew I'm late as hell over here but congrats man. I rock with JL. My 2 amps are the JL audio slash series. I have a 300/4 that actually does 100 in each channel and a 500/1 which puts out 600 to my sub. Been rocking the same amps since 2010. -
Box is pre-fabbed, hardly custom.
Nice amp, I used to sell Soundstream back inna day. -
Can someone please explain to me how the speakers and subs work together to produce the sound? Is it like surround sound where the speakers are dividing the wattage? what about the frequency response? if you have speakers that have a specific frequency response range do you have to make sure that the subs response is below it so that they don't clash?
i think i kinda answered my own question with that. but basically i just want to run two tens and make sure i can hear all parts with complete sound clarity. i don't care about rattle and knock so much as the sound. i wanna hear full round bass, drums that pop through the mix but still hear every sizzle of the hi hats. i wanna hear everything. thanks in advance.
also i know i want the system to be less than 2000 watts but greater than 1000 watts.
oh yeah and spend less than five hundred. preferably 300. i don't care about brands i want bang for my buck.
i'd appreciate it greatly if someone could help me with this.
jbl makes great subs for clean clear sound and bass vs trunck rattling knock. In my old car I replaced all the component speakers in the doors and back dash and put them on a 4 channel amp. then on a monoblock amp I put 2 12s (for u ur 2 10s). go with a sealed box instead of a ported one because the ported box is for more knock vs sound quality. U will have a great clean system with bass and great sound quality. Now if u want everything on on amp u could get a 5 channel amp and have everything running through it. It will expensive for a really good 5 channel amp and u gotta be real careful not to overheat it.
If you know how to design subwoofer enclosures properly, you can make even cheap Pyramid subs sound amazing. If you're really good, you can get a ported enclosure to give you deep, accurate bass. -
Best I have ever seen that car look